Hello folks, My name is Joe Walker of Elm Grove, LA. Thought I would introduce myself so you would know who's methods these are. I am an outdoors man through and through.

While I have my hands in a many of different pots hunting and fishing is my true passion. Enough about me, I could go on for hours, here is my methodology for trapping the notorious "Piney Rooters".

If you want to make your own hog trap that can and will catch up to an entire herd of wild hogs then keep on reading.

This is NOT a standard 4 x 8 portable hog trap that you load in the back of you truck or trailer which is for sale on this site, by the way. You should read everything from start to finish before making the trap.

Items Needed to Build a Hog Trap:

• 6 – 16 feet long hog panels for a small to medium sized feral hog traps, they are 4 feet tall. Just get a few more to build a larger one but 6 is a good quantity if this is your first pig trap. There are several different styles and the best ones for hold the hogs are the smallest squares but the largest holes (4" X 4") are the best to catch them as it is not so confining.

If you are catching feral hogs that have never been trapped before then go with the smaller and vice versa. I personally use the kind that has the rectangular squares that start of very narrow at the bottom then gradually increase in size to the top. I just thought I would explain the differences to you and let you figure out what you want.

• 20 – 7 foot tall T-Posts that are spaced at 3 posts per panel plus one extra at the beginning and one extra at the end which will actually be part of the supports for the door. You will need a pole driver too, they cost about 40.00 and you can get one when you buy the t-posts

• 1 – Trap Door – This is the most important part of the hog trap. DO NOT cut corners here as it will make or brake the whole trap. I will not use any other make, model or brand of doors; I only use the Slammer made by SOT. Here is a link where you can buy one and get free shipping, it is from Amazon, just click here.

This door will last forever and it never fails. I have built my own doors before but from time to time they hang up, they do not shut or the hog has rooted out. You can build your own easy enough but, again, the door is the most important part of this trap.

• 1 – 25 foot roll of wire/rope for the trigger and 3 or 4 cable clamps to fit for the beginning and end.

• 1 – Package of plastic zip ties to tie the panels to the t-posts and trap door. The 12" ones work the best.

• One short rod or stick about like a broom handle thickness and about 2 feet long

• Tools Needed are a post driver or you can use 8lb sledge hammer, pair of wire cutters or knife for wire / rope, crescent wrench.

Hog Trap Building Directions

You need to start with the trap door first, always set up the door posts and install the traps door to the t-posts. This is how: Drive the right side posts first then place the trap door to see where the other t-post goes. Drive it in and mount the door to the t-posts.

Now you need to lay the hog panels out and be sure to over lap them by about a foot (roughly) where very section touches. At each over lap you drive a t-post in the center and tie them together with the plastic zip ties.

You do two panels on one side then two panels down the other side. When you are done just adjust the last two panels to take up any space so that the last panel could over lap a couple of feet if needed. Go back and drive the remaining t-posts evenly.

Trigger Instructions

Connect one end of the wire to the opposite end of the trap from the door. Run three feet back towards the door or center of the pen. Hammer in a stick or metal rod and tie off the other end of the wire so that you have a single piece of wire about 3 feet long attached to the cage and to the rod.

Next you want to connect the above piece of wire to the trigger. Tie off one end of the wire to the wire you just done (above) near the hog panel side. Run the wire along the hog panels about two feet off the ground. It will be held up with the zip ties that are not zipped up tight, the wire should be able to move very freely. Attach the other end you are running now to the trigger, to the door

Special Notes***

Note*** - T-posts should be on the outside of the hog panels so that the posts take the pressure and not the zip ties. This is for when the hogs push the fencing/panels that the t posts will bear the weight instead of the pressure being applied on the zip ties.

Note*** - Fill in and pack down any low spots below the panels. The bottom of all panels should touch the ground or the feral pigs could possible root out depending on the type of soil and length of time that they are left in the trap. If something prevents you from that just use an extra t post there.

Note*** - If hog trapping in the hotter months be sure to but a couple of buckets of water in the center of the trap and know that they can not be left very long in direct sunlight without any shade. The hotter it is the less stress they can take without dying. My definition of stress is when they are first caught and come into human and/or canine contact.

Every day that they are around you they will start to settle down thus becoming more and more tamer until they become fully tame whereas you can get in the pen with them and they would not bite or tusk you. Trust me they can and will bite the ever loving daylights out of you in a New York minute.

Note*** - Set the trigger very hard meaning that it will take a lot of force to trip it. If you do not then you will have birds and other critters possibly setting it off all of the time, unless you use the diesel trick. Feral hogs will not have any problems whatsoever tripping a heavily set trigger.

The heavily set trigger is the trick to catching 2, 3, 4 or more wild pigs at a time. I caught 17 one time and I can not tell you all of the times I caught 6 to 15 at a time and I do not mean all piglets either. They usually work out to be mostly adults unless you happen to get a mother sow or two that is still nursing.

Sour a bucket of corn by letting it soak in water for a few days, the longer the better, I personally try for a couple of weeks if possible. Then soak it in diesel fuel for a few a days. Pour the corn around the door, a trail to the trip wire and pour the bulk of the corn out on the and around the trip wire. Needless to say DO NOT get careless and accidently catch the diesel on fire resulting in some seroius harm to yourself and whomever is with you.

Hogs love diesel soaked corn but deer, raccoons, armadillo, crows and other animalsdo not. The sour corn will make the hogs smell the bait a greater distances thus enhancing you hog trapping chances. They can smell very well and this will quadtriple your catch.

If you have any questions or comments please contact me at support@hogtraps.net

Trapping Book Description

Love nature as much as I do, I hope so. This trapping book should be a mandatory read for anyone wanting to trap and/or mess with furs.

It has very precise and detailed information about steel traps, snares and deadfalls. It shows you a complete diagram of several different triggers including my favorite the figure4 which is used a trigger for snares and deadfalls, it is also commonly used in the military  and by survivalists. You can carve one with .your pocket knife in about 5 minutes

Whether you are wanting to make protective style booby traps or you want to catch fur bearing animals this book teaches it all. It also shows you how to skin, stretch and preserve pelts/furs if you are heading in that direction. No matter which way you go this book has you covered. To see how cheap this book is just click here.